ADC
Rat Trapper
Posts: 112
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Post by ADC on Feb 14, 2007 16:37:44 GMT -5
Anyone besides me choose to live snare their critters? That is all but coyotes for me. We have a deer stop law that reqires one on every snare or I'd dispatch fox with the snares as well. They way it is I live snare all my coons, fox, badgers and even beaver... Here's a couple more pics... ~JPJ~
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Post by cajunbill2 on Feb 14, 2007 17:29:53 GMT -5
i prefer they was dispatched...when running my long line i always use a kill poles. nice pictures.......thank you
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Post by hawkeye on Feb 14, 2007 18:26:08 GMT -5
According to Newt Sterling you can put a shock spring on your snare, he says it will definitly kill!
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ADC
Rat Trapper
Posts: 112
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Post by ADC on Feb 14, 2007 22:23:54 GMT -5
Yep, your right on that Hawkeye as long as there is no deer stop on the snares and your lock is not relaxing at all. That is for coon and fox anyway, I've had snares cinched down tight to the deer stop and unless the neck snared fox or coon is hung up in something they are still alive, them stupid stops won't let the snares close tight enough. The springs help kill coyotes good though even with the deer stops. I'll be using more of them on coyotes in the years to come.
I do like bieng able to rub out the marks from the snares on them critters fast after dispatch too. If you kill snare them with a body catch that line will be pretty pronounced on the leather side of the pelt, if that matters to your buyer...
~JPJ~
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Post by Sunshine on Mar 10, 2007 16:25:40 GMT -5
ive never done it, but from wjhat i understand the snare rub mark definitely takes from the value of the fur..
is this true?
im thinkin bout tryin some next season and dont wanna watse the fur if i catch somethin in the snares
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Post by huckleberry on Mar 10, 2007 19:42:16 GMT -5
we can only water snare here....half the snare in the water. I do catch several beaver alive with them, but I prefer to drown them with the snares same as with footholds. There is sposed to be a way of tail snaring beaver, but I have yet to have ot work for me.
I found year before last where I can snare alot of coon with legal set snares. I did it both ways but prefer the lethal snares in that situation. When I have used another set for coon here I prefered them to be live snares.
Now down in Ky, I used alot of snares, same as here, I prefered one over the other depending on the set and area. If I had my druthers, I prefer live snares.
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Post by Earl8656 on Mar 10, 2007 19:54:39 GMT -5
Woody, the snare mark can take away from the value of the pelt. It all depends on where it is and the severity of the mark. Critters in snares don'thave the same mark all the way around the hide,in most cases. Foxes and yotes, if they are properly cared for after they're put up are virtually impossible to tell they were snared,cause the leather is in. On the other hand a coon with a severe snare mark in his back will surely be downgraded; because, the buyer knows that to make a mark like that, some fur has been damaged. Belly marks don't matter that much. BTW possums don't usually have that much of a mark if you keep em live and rub the snare line vigorously after dispatch ;D
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Post by mink1574 on Mar 10, 2007 20:07:55 GMT -5
you said it well earl
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Post by Earl8656 on Mar 10, 2007 20:10:07 GMT -5
tuvm
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ADC
Rat Trapper
Posts: 112
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Post by ADC on Mar 13, 2007 10:20:45 GMT -5
Cathryn, the snare mark does NOT take away from the value unless the snare loc puts a hole in the pelt. if your being knocked down in price on a snared critter with on holes, then it's time to find a new buyer, but what do I know. I've never been docked for any damage caused by the snares. I have on occasion had coons chew at the area where the lock rests (usually due to to frayed cable ends poking them IMO) causing damage worthy of a deduction. But it is rare like 1 in 100 or more. Of course that is only on the thousands of coons I've snared, I never been docked for a mark on any other hide caused by the snares. ~ADC~
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Post by huckleberry on Mar 13, 2007 10:34:25 GMT -5
jpj, what sorta set up you use? CR's or True snares?
Curious about how bad your snare marks may be...not to get docked for many..........
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Post by cajunbill2 on Mar 13, 2007 11:44:06 GMT -5
i have found when i used 5/64 or 3/32 cable with a small lock with a kill pole i have very i mean very little damage at all...its a knowed fact that the more the animal fights the more chance of damage .the quicker he's down the less damage thats why i use kill poles like o'gorman used.
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ADC
Rat Trapper
Posts: 112
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Post by ADC on Mar 13, 2007 12:32:14 GMT -5
jpj, what sorta set up you use? CR's or True snares? Curious about how bad your snare marks may be...not to get docked for many.......... For live snaring coon I use 7x7 3/32 cable and one of several types of locks including but not limited to Berkshire Washers, Hansen Washers, and Cam-Locks. I then set them in non-entanglement situations. I agree with cajunbill though if you could neck snare coons and kill them with kill poles consistently that would be the way to go. Personally I don't think it can be done here in Iowa. I have tried it and find the due to the vast array of sizes of coons, combined with a mandatory deer stop law on all snares, you can't neck snare and kill them all. So the entanglement of the kill pole adds to the severity of the bruising on the leather side of the pelt which is what most fur buyers conceder "bad" snare marks.
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Post by huckleberry on Mar 13, 2007 12:45:22 GMT -5
Ok teach me here........how do you use a camlock for a live snare.
I don't have alot of speriance with snares, but the little I have done, the camlocks seem to well..."lock" up hard. Entanglement or not, once they get down, they stay down. Is it the deer stops that allow you use them as live snares?
I am not doubting your word at all, I know little about snaring really, just wanna learn all I can about this.
Bill, that is what I was thinkin or have always thought, a dead critter aint gonna "bruise" like a live one fighting the snare for a longer period of time.
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Post by woody on Mar 13, 2007 14:38:06 GMT -5
Huck, the coyote in my pic above was in a 5ft. 3/32 7x7 snare with a camloc and BAD, and was very much alive when I got there, the coon was in the same set up but a 3ft snare with a camloc. the only close as tight as the animal will close them, and a animal aint going to choke it's self. I have seen where a yote went thru a snare with a camloc and was running when he hit the snare and was when he hit the end of the snare was down and out. I have taken reds in the coon set up and had them as alife as if they was in a foothold. if they can't tangle they wont choke down don't matter what lock you use unless you put a spring on the lock and that's illegal here in ohio
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Post by huckleberry on Mar 13, 2007 16:12:54 GMT -5
hmmm....I'll take ya'lls word for it. I used Camlocs two years in KY. everything critter I caught..which were greys. reds, coon, and yotes were cinched up tight and down and out when I got the them. The neck snared ones anyway. Which most were.
I can see where they may be alive if one shoulder, or body caught, but neck snared I don't understand it.
I was useing both 5/64th, and 3/32 cable, camlocs, with two swivels. Some tangled, some didn't. All neck caught were goners.
Like I said though, I am no snare expert by anymeans. Always lookin to learn from others.
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Post by mink1574 on Mar 13, 2007 17:10:13 GMT -5
howdy Jayme, ? for ya. most of mt coon in snares are caught around the middle,in yote snares that are set up with dispatch springs. I have been told that when the hide is dressed it will be in 2 pieces because it will come apart at the snare mark. is this correct or just B.S. from my buyer? see ya Brian
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Post by Earl8656 on Mar 13, 2007 19:42:17 GMT -5
I think u're gettin a little bs. The hide will be there, it all depends if the roots of the fur have been damaged or not. In most cases it's no worse than a conibear mark
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Post by mink1574 on Mar 13, 2007 20:02:04 GMT -5
kinda what i thought too earl ,if am knowingly setting for coon ,i set conis anyway... but man ya can snare yotes easier than trap them,at least as far as keeping them operational in all weather conditions.
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Post by Earl8656 on Mar 13, 2007 20:15:45 GMT -5
with yotes and foxes, hide is in...........proper presentation will leave it undeterminable
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ADC
Rat Trapper
Posts: 112
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Post by ADC on Mar 13, 2007 22:06:20 GMT -5
I do intened to body catch all by coons preferably just behind both front legs. It doesn't always work that way but usually I get them like that. A cam-lock won't kill them body snared like that at least not without entanglement. Like I said before with the rarity of sizes of coons here it impossible for me to neck snare them all so I don't try. Out of all the coons I caught this past fall fewer than a dozen were neck snared and most of them were on kill poles that I was trying out. (they failed, too many body catches) The deer stop prevents fox from bieng killed as well, even neck snared, which is how I snare all my fox. Mink I heard that from a buyer once, I switched buyers. There must a little something to it if you get a real severe mark (ie. little cable, little lock, gut catch, in entanglement) but with the varity of snares available today, and the knowlege that is out there, I can't see it bieng a true problem these days. jpj
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Post by furbuy46 on Aug 16, 2007 22:33:53 GMT -5
Rule of thumb on snare marks. If it has a light white line, it is ok unless it has visible fur damage. If it has a red line or a clesr spot on the skin, you have damage of some typ. depends on how bad and where it is. I buy a lot of snared beaver and I see a lot of snare damage on beaver,. The reason for this is , not wanting to go to the trouble of putting snared beaver on drowners. As far as you fellas taking your fur to another buyer if you have snare damage, just because you don't believe he is telling you the truth, I doubt he is lieing to you. I would say for the most part if a buyer says you have snare damage, you probably do. a lot of damage can be avoided if you do the snareing correctly. But even then, you are not going to get a 100% bunch of clean pelts.
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Post by Earl8656 on Aug 20, 2007 9:09:30 GMT -5
Good reply, Don. A lot of trappers don't want to be told they aren't doing a good job, so they will try to lay the blame on someone else.....aka a crooked furbuyer. I trust my buyer, and he has helped me immensely over the past 30 years!
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Post by cajunbill2 on Aug 20, 2007 16:33:19 GMT -5
first off i have used 1000's of camlocks and ....one... the animals were all dead and two there was fur damage from the lock ...thats why i went to the penny size washer locks no sharp corners to damage fur.....as for cable damage i have very little due to the facts i use kill poles when legal
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ADC
Rat Trapper
Posts: 112
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Post by ADC on Aug 21, 2007 14:00:39 GMT -5
Don there are a few crooked buyers too. I had a buyer once when I was a kid tell me he was docking me for snare marks on every critter he bought. So they are out there. Remember Ludy Sheda? I could see him doing that. lol I'm not saying ever buyer who docks some of the fur for bad mark is a crook by any means either.
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Post by Newt on Aug 21, 2007 19:39:52 GMT -5
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possumskinner
Grinner Skinner
POOP KING
What ya see is What ya get!!!
Posts: 319
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Post by possumskinner on Aug 21, 2007 20:35:13 GMT -5
lol newt ... i like the ol "shadier than a 100 year old oak tree" reference myself ;D
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Post by Earl8656 on Aug 22, 2007 10:16:42 GMT -5
lol.....good one possum ;D
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Post by furbuy46 on Aug 22, 2007 18:57:11 GMT -5
My problem on damaged fur is, I try to give my trappers all I think they are worth, or I buy it as very slt, damaged. Most of the time I loose on the darn stuff. The problem with fur damage is this, there is a 100 different things that makes a pelt not a no 1 pelt. Some of the stuff that looks like minimal or no damage to a trapper, is in fact very damaged when it comes to the sale of a pelt. Something as minimal as not getting all the grease scraped off the neck of a coon can damage the coon. I am not talking big globs of grease either, I am saying that if you leave a thin coat of grease on a coon anywhere especially in the grissle areas, you have a coon that can go from a slt. damaged coon to a badly damaged coon. If you are snaring beaver and you end up with a red line on your pelt, it is damaged to some degree. Even if you do not have the line on the pelt you can still have plenty of fur damage. A lot of times just the beaver dragging the snare back and forth across his back causes fur damage. Every time the cable swipes across the back or the flanks of a beaver, you can run a chance of having cable streaks in your beaver. The longer your beaver is alive on the bank the more chance you have of another beaver attacking your snared beaver. This happens a lot especially when late winter starts to arrive. The faster you can get an animal dead the better off you will be. On my snared beaver I will end up with a good 60-70 % less damage than a lot of the people I buy snared beaver from. The same goes for coniber caught beaver or even steel trapped beaver. Once you catch the critter, get him out of the line of travel from the next critter. A beaver caught in a coni staked down to much , is gonna be a bit up beaver. Let your beaver swing out of the path of other beaver to avoid this kind of damage. Trappers are their own worst enemy when it comes to damage on their critters. Trap smart and watch what you are doing.
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Post by Earl8656 on Aug 23, 2007 9:03:52 GMT -5
Everyone makes mistakes....the smart ones learn from theirs! ;D
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