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i need
Jan 21, 2007 22:02:04 GMT -5
Post by Sunshine on Jan 21, 2007 22:02:04 GMT -5
a pic of a snare..anyone have one you can post?
i need it up close and in detail..thanks
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i need
Jan 21, 2007 22:16:49 GMT -5
Post by jeff on Jan 21, 2007 22:16:49 GMT -5
what exactly do ya need??
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i need
Jan 27, 2007 11:43:30 GMT -5
Post by Sunshine on Jan 27, 2007 11:43:30 GMT -5
i basically need to see how to make one..night not be able to see it here though...might have to wait till march and just learn for next year
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i need
Jan 27, 2007 11:53:31 GMT -5
Post by hawkeye on Jan 27, 2007 11:53:31 GMT -5
ADC has a sticky on Swamptalk, How to Build A Loaded Snare. Excellent up close pics and descriptions.
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i need
Jan 27, 2007 11:54:56 GMT -5
Post by Sunshine on Jan 27, 2007 11:54:56 GMT -5
wow..thank you hawkeye
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ADC
Rat Trapper
Posts: 112
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i need
Feb 1, 2007 13:20:40 GMT -5
Post by ADC on Feb 1, 2007 13:20:40 GMT -5
Here you go... First cut your cable to the desired length. Next, attach a stop to one end. (I pound on aluminum stops but nuts work too) Then, roll the cable between your fingers to see which way it naturally wants to curve. This is called finding the "memory" of the cable... Then using a pair of small needle nosed pliers bend a small loop exactly back wards of the natural curl. (if the cable wants to bend down you bend the little end back up)... Now, using a piece of smooth rod, run the first several inches of the cable over it to, in effect, curl the cable like curling a ribbon. This curl should be with the natural memory of the cable not against it like small curl at the end. This is the "loading" of the cable.... Next put on your lock. I'm using a Reichart Slammer Lock here. (180* reverse bend lock) These are one of the locks that are recommended for live snaring and on cable restraints (great for coon and beaver).... Next add your support collar (whammy), swivel, swivel washer and end stop... To be Iowa legal I add the nut to create a "deer stop" which pervents the loop closing smaller than 2 1/2" in diameter. (this is to allow leg caught deer to step out of the loop) You then have a completed loaded snare.... Why you may ask would you want a loaded snare vs. a non-loaded snare? Here is a quote from the Pro Snares web site that explains it best... "Snares that are loaded properly close much easier, smoother and faster than snares that are not. Loaded snares snap shut! This will increase your neck catch ratio, reduce your misses and increase your overall catch statistics. Loaded snares not only increase your neck catch ratio, but also reduce or eliminate the number of body, gut or hip catches which also helps reduce the possibilities of fur damage. While snares on the animal's body, like with coon or beaver, may be OK with the right snare rig, it is not an ideal location for most fur bearers. Loaded snares start to close easier, thus the animal doesn't feel the resistance which may get it to back out of the loop or try and step through... which promotes gut catches or complete misses." ~ADC~ Here's something else you find of interest... www.procoonsnaring.info/~JPJ~ aka ~ADC~
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Feb 1, 2007 13:24:09 GMT -5
Post by Earl8656 on Feb 1, 2007 13:24:09 GMT -5
good demonstration. thanks
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i need
Feb 1, 2007 15:42:07 GMT -5
Post by cajunbill2 on Feb 1, 2007 15:42:07 GMT -5
thanks for the picture
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